We entered the New Orleans city limits from the north,
driving past the
Superdome on our left and toward the Convention Center where
we would drop off our rental car. We
chose to bring it back to Hertz with an empty tank and we may have been running
on fumes when we arrived. A taxi cab was
called and we traveled at breakneck speed to our bed and breakfast. We stayed at a quaint little place called
The Chimes, on
Constantinople
(Not Istanbul) Street in the heart of the equally quaint
Garden District of the city. There’s even a
literary connection here, as the main character of the definitive New Orleans
novel
Confederacy of Dunces, Ignatius J. Reilly, lived on Constantinople
Street.
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BowlingWidow at The Chimes Bed & Breakfast: Great Place to Stay |
The Garden District is a great (and very safe) place to
walk, with all of its big deciduous trees and classic old homes. Some of the more famous residents of the area
include actor
John Goodman (what was he thinking when he made
King Ralph?) and ex-NFL quarterback
Archie Manning, now more well known for being
Peyton and
Eli’s dad. There are a couple
of Garden District activities we really felt were worth doing. First, take a tour of
Lafayette Cemetery#1. A guided tour if possible so you can
take in the historical notes and learn how these cemeteries were constructed
and operate to this day. Then, walk the
length of
Magazine Street with its stores, shops, and interesting restaurants
and bars.
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A Typical Garden District Home |
On a daily basis during the four days we were in New
Orleans, we took the
streetcars into the
French Quarter that run along
St.Charles Street. While they weren’t
exactly as fast a speeding bullet train they were a reliable and inexpensive
way to get around. The tremendously
popular (and free!)
French Quarter Music Festival was going on which had those
streetcars busting at the seams with humanity.
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Beads From Parades and Parties Gone By Cover the Lines and Cables Along St. Charles Street |
Over the four-day run, the FQ Music Festival attracted
around 500,000 people. There was music
for everyone’s taste there, unless you are a fan of chamber music or death
metal. Jazz, Blues, Funk, Zydeco, Brass,
Traditional, Modern….it was all there on 20 stages (and some street corners)
for 10 hours a day. We couldn’t have
possibly seen much more than a fraction of the hundreds of acts but some that
made an impression on us under sunny 83-degree skies included
Bruce Daigrepont,
Rebirth Brass Band (absolutely blew us away),
Papa Grows Funk,
The Zydepunks,
and
Walter “Wolfman” Washington, who got our vote for Best Name for a Living
Blues Musician.
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Downtown New Orleans from the Mississippi River |
A couple of more highlights would include getting in to
Preservation Hall (barely), that classic concrete cathedral of traditional
jazz, to catch a performance. So was
listening to
Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue on the lawn on the last night
of the festival. Actually I think that
all 500,000 people were right there with us so we recently got tickets to see
them later this year at a smaller venue in Seattle. All said, the weather more than cooperated,
the food that we had (such as crawfish pie) sold at the event was great and
even the
Abita beer was drinkable for this Northwest beer snob.
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The Rebirth Brass Band on Stage |
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Inside Preservation Hall (Barely) for a Show |
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Bourbon Street at Dusk |
Finally, a few other notes about New Orleans:
·
We didn’t wander too far from the French Quarter
and the Garden District into places such as
Treme. It would have been interesting to have set
foot in those areas but we were warned not to by many and frankly we don’t run
as fast as we used to.
·
There’s the French Quarter and then there’s
Bourbon Street, within the FQ. By and
large the Quarter is a lot of fun to check out, drink a
Hurricane at, shop and
get something to eat. The exception is
Bourbon Street and the half block perimeter around Bourbon Street at which you
begin to smell a fragrant combination of sewage and vomit. We don’t really know exactly what goes on
there, but it goes on there 24/7. And
they’re all drunk.
·
We were impressed by the ability of the
residents (and visitors) to have a good time no matter what.
Katrina wasn’t a death blow for this place
and neither will be the next thing that gets thrown at them.
·
The telephone wires along St. Charles Street
were loaded with beads. I think some of
the strands have been there since
Mardi Gras 1955.
·
Given the great (and rich) local food offerings,
it’s perfectly understandable to me that Louisiana is near the top of the
national leaderboard when it comes to obesity.
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One Final Photo from New Orleans That Just Seemed to Capture the Moment |
And speaking of food, next up is my fourth and final blog
post. I’ll conclude with a bite about
the cuisine in Louisiana.